Most North Americans come to Paris for two things: museums and shopping. While le Louvre and Orsay may offer views of priceless artifacts and works of art, like La Jaconde; they are out of our reach, and almost unreal behind glass cases and multilingual crowds. Le Galeries Lafayette, for the shopping literate and loaded may seem like heaven, the average person can feel the burn of their credit card just by looking at the displays of Gucci clutches, D & G dresses and Hermes scarves. Despite days spent with the splendor and culture of the city of lights, most return home with a cheap model of La Tour Eiffel, a poster of La Jacondeand knock off prada bag from an aggresive street vendor. Perhaps the only place in Paris where one can bring home any of the decadent offerings of Paris, is Les Puces de St. Quen. Les Puces, or fleas, is the slang term for flea market here in French-town, and they know how to do them here!
These markets cover 7 hectares of land in the 18th arrondissement, in the North of the city. Here, one can find almost anything with antique status along with new designer furniture, art, clothes (both quality vintage and new), books and much more. There are 15 markets, each unique, that all combine in close quarters over the vastness of Les Puces.
From the metro Porte de la Chapelle, I came up staircase onto an already busy street. Past a few leather shops and cheap bag stores, Les Puces begins with stalls of new clothes, shoes, real lather jackets and nick-knacks, one quickly learns that this is only a mirage of the real markets. Most of these are items one could find in a mall, but here they are a fraction of the price and worth exploring anyways.
Past the tent city, the real Flea Market emerges, first with a thick ring of Behemian style clothe shops, kiosk cafes and more leather. This first row holds many gems down the way, with smaller, less expensive versions of the vintage and antiquities stores inside.
For the lover of all things pretty, the shopping for your petit tresorcan now begin. Most of the antique stores specialize in either mascline items, or more dainty feminine peices. small glass cases at the front of the stores hold gloves, made of french lace from the 20’s, frilly fans with all the images and colours one could imagine, or delicate jewellry. The are tiaras, hats of every shape and size, silk scarves and a version of most everything pretty dating back since the age chivalry. One store, in Machet Dauphine has so many accessories, both classic and retro, that you can ask for a specific kind of barret, and they will pull out an entire box! For a girly girl, or lover of beautiful little treasures, Les Puces has more to offer than you can Imagine.
Walking through the market, one can see amny a man pulled by cuff links through the stalls to the refurbished furniture section, all the while his eyes wandering over the items for the stronger sex. Pocket knifes ranging from the size of a cricket to the length of a hand, razors, old sporting goods, knives, swords, and even the occasional gun line the front of more masculine shops. Although many of these items are behind glass cases, one look at the vendor and a man can wrap his hands around the hilt of Napoleon era sword, or test the blade of ivory handled pocket knife. There are shops which have only world war memorabilia and some that have only hunting gear or taxidermy decor. Some especially intriguing items I saw were leather footballs and rugby balls that were in such good quality they looked nearly new!
Bookworms, beware the weight of your wallet! There are countless shops, both general and speacialed of literature. Most of books are french, but there are also many english copies. Comics and old magazines are another popular item. There is an erotic literatre in the bookshop square with items ranging fromXXX to classic playboys, wrapped in plastic covering. Pinup books and posters from the last half of the 20th century are widely available in mint condidtion here, for a man with a love of tasteful erotic art. Also, one with a love of music can find rare records in the huge bins, for as little as 50cents!
For women, another kind of lust… clothes, specifically vintage. Not, I-got-it-at-a-thrift-store-vintage, but Dior, Channel, Christian Delacroix circa you-name-it kind of vintage. Everything from dresses, to fur, to shoes, to accessories, you can find it, fresh looking and gorgeous on the racks and in the windows of almost a dozen stores. Forget Lafayette! You have les Puces.
The most spectacular part of the markets was indeed the furniture and antique pieces for houses. Old gold enamelled piano’s refurbished to look and sound like new, sets of chairs and sofa’s which look like they came right of of Pride and Prejudice, pottery you swear Marie Antoinette could have eaten off of, all sprawling in lavish stalls, literally for miles. Working record players, bedroom sets, mirrors, carpets, tapestries, all looking like they were stolen from an old forgotten palace in the french country side. Prices range from I’ll-just-put-it-on-visa, to can-you-put-that-on-hold-while-I-go-get-a-loan? For anyone with a love of practical beauty and design, you can take a leisurely walk down the stalls of Les Puces and oggle at the marvels nonchalantly flirting with your senses.
Some of these things may cost a pretty-euro, but if one is willing to search, or bargain hard with a vendor, it is easy to find great deal on something great. If one collects, an item, whether it be books, art or anything else, your knowledge of a subject can come in handy when dropped into a conversation with the vendor. He will think twice before blowing you off if he knows you are looking for quality, or a specific piece. When looking to get a big ticket item, don’t hesitate to ask for an experts opinion, especially in the main markets, as hey are on hand if you need them and are willing to wait a few minutes.
If you are someone looking to take in a bit of the real Paris, and take a little bit back home, visit Les Puces Saturday, Sunday or Monday… bring good shoes and a budget!
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